Sometimes you’re out and about, walking the aisles of your favorite store, and you see a piece of furniture that just screams “potential.” It may be a little broken with dings and dents, but it has a perfectly solid base. Or maybe the finish is actually flawless, but it’s dark wood stain and airy white paint colors are more your style. Great news: even if the furniture isn’t quite to your taste, if the price is right, it’s still worth snapping up. That’s because painting wooden furniture is a super affordable and easy way to create just that item of your dreams.
If you’re not a patient person, the hardest part of painting wood furniture can be the waiting time between coats – especially after you’ve applied the first coat of primer with your top coat and it’s in the “ugly stage”. ” This is the part where you question every decision you’ve ever made with a brush and consider abandoning ship (er, chair/bookshelf/etc). Don’t panic! As long as you follow the directions on the back of the paint can and wait the allotted time between coats, your newly painted wood furniture will turn out beautifully. (Want to repaint laminate furniture? For best results, you need this guide to painting IKEA furniture.)
Have I, a seasoned DIYer who has painted double digit pieces of furniture, always followed the best practices for painting wood furniture to get the best results? Um, no — I’m definitely guilty of being too impatient and thinking “paint is paint and it’ll stick to anything.” But, was I wrong! Once you make the mistake of not coating and sealing the surface properly after spending valuable time painting, you will recognize the error of your ways and find the patience to take the extra time to get it right. Here is my tried and tested best method for painting wooden furniture.
Tools and accessories needed for painting wooden furniture
How to paint wooden furniture
1. Prepare your workspace and remove all hardware.
Find a well-ventilated work area and lay down the cloth. Grab a screwdriver and remove any hardware.
Remove all drawers and tape all glass, metal or mirror surfaces.
2. Clean the surfaces of your piece.
Prepare the surface for painting by cleaning it well with something like Murphy’s Oil Soap. If there is any sticker grime on the surface, you can try #0000 steel wool combined with soap to keep the surface nice and clean.
If your piece is already painted but not as smooth, you can completely remove the paint by sanding the finish with 80, 120, then 220 grit sandpaper. Wipe the surface with a tack cloth to completely remove all dust and debris, then clean with Murphy’s Oil soap . If the surface is painted or stained and already smooth, you can get away with just lightly sanding the surface with 120 grit sandpaper to help the new coat of primer adhere.
If your piece is in relatively good, odor-free condition, a water-based primer will work. However, if it has an unusual smell, you may need something else. Zinsser BIN is a good option because the shellac formula creates a barrier over the wood, retaining all unpleasant odors. When using this primer, follow the safety instructions on the back of the can, always paint in a well-ventilated area and wear a respirator. This thing is intense!
Use a roller for priming large flat surfaces, and a brush for narrower areas.
5. Sand out any imperfections before applying paint.
Allow the primer to dry for the appropriate amount of time as recommended by the manufacturer. Then, using fine sandpaper (220 is fine), remove any visible brush strokes left by the primer for a super smooth finish. Wipe the surface with a tack cloth to remove any dust or debris.
Then apply your first coat of paint using a large area roller. Don’t overfill the roller – you want to build up thin layers over time for a really nice, smooth finish.
6. Use a brush for precise surfaces.
Cut into all the nooks and crannies (areas the roller won’t be able to reach) using a brush. I like to use the Wooster 2-inch angle brush, which is fantastic for furniture projects. Be careful not to overload it with paint – drips are the enemy. Avoid them at all costs.
7. Let your first coat dry, then iron out the imperfections.
For how long to wait between layers, see the manufacturer’s instructions. For a completely smooth surface, you can sand between layers using 220 grit sandpaper.
Be sure to clean thoroughly after sanding so you don’t end up with sand in the next coat of paint. A tack cloth or microfiber cloth will pick up any excess residue.
Most colors will only require two coats for full coverage, but after this coat you’ll know if you need a third.
Sealing the painted piece is optional, but it’s always a good idea as it reduces chipping, water damage or scratches and extends the life of the paint job.
Choose the same finish as your paint; for latex paints, water-based acrylic is the way to go. Acrylic sealant is invisible and won’t need to be reapplied for years. Again, follow the directions on the back of the can, allowing enough time for the sealant to dry before using your piece of furniture.
10. Reassemble the piece of furniture.
Once the sealant has had a chance to dry completely, reattach all the hardware and put the drawers back in place.
Following these steps will give you a beautifully painted piece of furniture that will last for years – or at least until you change your mind and are ready to repeat the process with another color!